Turtle Rock Revisited

The gray, cloudy morning gave way to sunshine and white fluffy clouds by early afternoon when we arrived at the trail head for Turtle Rock Segment for the second time this year. On this last day of summer, fall colors were beginning to develop along the highway as we traveled north from Wausau on this short road trip. The alternating sensation of cool air from the open sunroof and the warm air from the heat vents was exhilarating and I couldn't wait to have a second chance at hiking this segment!

Earlier this summer, when Charlie and I hiked the entire Turtle Rock segment, the hot, humid weather prevented me from enjoying the last half of the trail because I just wanted to be done hiking! The terrain was difficult both from the rocky landscape and the jungle-sized ferns towering over me, making it impossible to run from the mosquitoes.

I feel lucky to live so close to this segment and have the chance to experience it in different seasons. No trail is ever the same:  light, wildlife and weather make every hike a unique experience. And since the weather has cooled off as the days drift into autumn, bugs are no longer an issue.

Today we started at the trail head on County Hwy E in order to experience what I consider to be the best and most scenic part of this segment along the Wisconsin River ending at Grandfather Falls. At 1:30pm the sun was shining, fluffy white clouds scuttled across the sky and a strong breeze stirred the leaves all around us. The 60-degree temperature was cool and refreshing.

With the sun at a lower angle and the leaves beginning to change color, the forest had a soft yellow glow as the light filtered through the canopy. Beautiful white birch trees formed an ethereal tunnel as we made our way into the woods.

Charlie became distracted when the trail reached the stream that eventually flows into the Wisconsin River. She frequently sniffed the air and paused to listen, as if she sensed wildlife nearby. I made sure to talk loudly and clap my hands to alert any forest-dwellers.

Charlie took a swim break when we arrived at the Wisconsin River above Grandfather Dam where the water was calm, reflecting the electric blue sky above.

After a short break, we continued down toward Grandfather Falls, carefully picking our way through the rocky terrain. I absolutely LOVE this part of the trail because of its obstacle-course qualities. Climbing up and down and all around these rocks makes me feel like a kid again. We found several piles of scat on the trail but were unable to detect what kind of animal left them there. Some were fairly fresh so it's obvious that something had been through here recently, proving Charlie had been correct in her earlier wariness.

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Upon arriving at Grandfather Falls, I took the opportunity to lie on the sun-warmed rock slab while having a snack and let the roaring water clear my mind and relax my spirit. Charlie was content to sit next to me, watching the water flow all around us and have some treats too.

After catching our breath and having a nice break, we continued on a little further to a calm spot in a narrow inlet between the shore and the raging rapids where Charlie could explore the rocky riverbank and play with sticks. I rock-hopped around as well, exploring with her and trying to stay dry! The reflection of the clear blue sky in the water was mesmerizing and we spent more time enjoying the scenery than I had anticipated. It's a lovely luxury to have time to slow down and enjoy the scenery, absorbing the landscape that surrounds you.

As we made our way back, I realized that the shorter days and the lower position of the sun caused the woods to seem almost dark in this late afternoon light. The sun-dappled trail we had enjoyed earlier was now a bit spooky. I was relieved to exit the woods and transition onto the wide, grassy path where the sunshine illuminated flying insects and glowed golden on the late-summer grasses.

Charlie slept peacefully on the way home while I made a quick stop at a roadside stand to purchase some camp wood for our backyard firepit. With the harvest moon waning and crisp, cool evenings looming, I'm looking forward to snuggling up around the campfire with some hot chocolate and enjoy this fleeting season before winter arrives. The fall colors are just starting to arrive here in the Northwoods of Wisconsin, but they'll be in full blaze in just a week or two. It's a great time to plan a fall color road trip and explore this beautiful state!

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Ice Age Trail: Turtle Rock Segment

Charlie and I completed the Turtle Rock Segment last weekend! I'm always happy to hike a trail near a river ~ especially the Wisconsin River, but this was one of the most challenging and difficult trails I've ever done. It didn't help that it was a hot day and the deer flies were out in full-force either.

We started at the Burma Rd. entrance with the hope of completing the longest stretch of trail first and then taking a decent break when we reached the river. The problem began when we entered the trail and were instantly swarmed with biting flies that we had to practically run from. I kept my can of bug spray in hand, ready for constant reapplications. I even sprayed Charlie's new Ruffwear Web Master Harness and wiped some spray on top of her head; I felt so bad for her.

The terrain alternated from wide mowed paths edged with trees to overgrown wooded areas where the path was barely visible, although the yellow trail blazes are easy to find. However, the bugs never relented. Occasionally there would be mucky spots and I could see how difficult this trail would be during the spring or after a rainy period, but by this time in the year the creeks and marshes were mostly dried-up.

 

We eventually entered a forest-and-swamp mix that reminded me of the "Fire Swamp" from the Princess Bride movie. I kept waiting for the "Rodents Of Unusual Size" to jump out at me. Maybe it's just because this is such a remote part of the trail, but it was spooky. At times like these, I'm so glad to have my dog, Charlie, along. While I'm technically hiking alone, having her with me helps me feel less so.

Rocks began to protrude up through the trail in spots and I could hear the distant roar of the falls; I figured we were getting close to the river. Finally.

But apparently I was wrong. Instead we continued to trek along completely overgrown trail with waist-high weeds. And the flies were still swarming... although by this point I just gave in and accepted that they were going to be with us throughout the hike. Charlie was a good trail leader and trudged ahead, blazing her own trail. At times, I could barely see her red vest through the thick ferns.

Finally we arrived at the trail marker turning us toward the river, but as we got close enough to see the distant water, I realized the foliage was going to be too dense to get near the river's edge. Charlie kept trying to pull me toward the sound of the water, but we had to keep heading along the trail and hope to find an opening soon. I knew she was getting hot; we needed to find a safe spot for her to go swimming and take a break.

Hiking with a dog has its own special challenges. It's not like you can ask whether they're okay or if they need a break - you have to watch their body language and use good judgment. I always carry enough water for both of us because I don't want Charlie drinking out of the mosquito-filled puddles (and whatever else might be in there). We take regular breaks to have a snack, rehydrate and pour water on top of her back (under the harness) to help keep her cool. I also stop every 1/2 hour or so to check her feet for injuries and pull ticks off her.

The trail was getting MUCH more challenging along this stretch. We had to scramble over huge rocks, boulders and logs while climbing up, down and all around. Having the Ruffwear Roamer Leash belted to me - freeing up my hands - allowed me to grip rocks and tree trunks as I made my way through this crazy trail.

The trail kept going and going and going and all the while the river was taunting us with its delightful babble over the 1.8 billion-year-old rocks of Grandfather Falls... just out of reach. We paused frequently to look for yellow blazes to make sure we were still on the trail - sometimes guessing our way but never getting lost. And finally a view of the river; we had to be close to an opening!

But no. Next thing I know, we're practically swallowed up by ferns that were taller than me! Charlie didn't know where to go, so I took the lead, wading through the ferns and hoping like crazy that we were heading in the right direction.

Six-foot-tall ferns!

Yellow blaze on small tree ahead!

As we emerged from the ferns, I spotted a yellow blaze on a tree up ahead - sweet relief! And yet, the trail continued with no access to the river.

Until finally we came out onto a large sloping rock just below Grandfather Dam. We could see people fishing and picnicking on the opposite shore, enjoying a beautiful Saturday afternoon - such a tease after hiking so long and just wanting to be done already.

Unfortunately the water was moving too swiftly to let Charlie swim here. We headed back up the trail, much to Charlie's dismay, to hopefully find a swimming spot above the dam in calmer water. This time Charlie was in luck! And I totally let her play and frolic in the water for as long as she wanted. She was so happy and completely revived!

After our swimming break, we headed back into the woods to finish up the hike. I found a HUGE snake skin across the trail at one point (presumably a water snake) and we heard deer up on the ridge above us, which Charlie attempted to chase before realizing that she was securely anchored to me.

Snake skin in comparison to my boot - over 3 feet long?

I was dead tired so I allowed Charlie to assist with pulling me up the steep trail above the tiny creek flowing below us.

The hike continued through pretty woods and decent trail terrain. I carried Charlie over the bridge at the final creek crossing because the squares in the plastic grate were too big and her feet would have gone through. When we arrived at the designated parking area off County Highway E, I checked my clock and found that we'd hiked the 5 miles of trail in 2-1/2 hours. Not too bad, but longer than I had expected. Turtle Rock Segment definitely requires extra time due to the extreme terrain and allowing time for possibly wandering off-trail. We found some evidence of trail-marker damage but not enough to cause us to get lost - the yellow blazes are always easy to find if you watch for them.

Best Outdoor Activities Town: WAUSAU!

How cool is this?! Wisconsin Trails online survey results awarded Wausau with the #2 spot for Best Outdoor Activities Town! Since Wausau is the home of Hiking With Heather, I couldn't be happier! And it is so true... outdoor activities are abundant here. I love how they mention the Ice Age Trail... which will be the focus of my upcoming guided trail hikes. Charlie and I are heading up to the Turtle Rock Segment tomorrow!

Check out the other towns on the list here.


Excerpt from list on www.WisconsinTrails.com:
2. Best Outdoor Activities Town: Wausau
Name an outdoor activity and it’s highly likely you can do it in Wausau. Skiing on Rib Mountain, kayaking on the Wisconsin River at Whitewater Park and hiking the Ice Age Trail are just the tip of the, ahem, iceberg when it comes to enjoying Wisconsin’s outdoors here.

“Tons of parks, Rib Mountain, snowmobile trails, fishing in Lake Wausau and the Wisconsin River, kayaking championships. And, there are a lot more green areas than other cities.” – Mark Ninnemann, Ringle

“I can paddle a kayak and catch a musky or a walleye in the same place!” – Andrew Plath, Wausau

“From downhill skiing at Granite Peak in the winter to boating and kayaking the Wisconsin River in the summer, there is always something to do. The area also offers great whitetail hunting and fishing opportunities.” – Ryan Plamann, Mauston

Runner-up: Eagle River