IAT: John Muir Segment (Treasure Hunt Ends)

After a fun-filled and relaxing weekend spent with family, Charlie and I headed back home last Sunday afternoon. Driving through Madison was stressful and nerve-wracking, leaving me short of breath at times and gripping the steering wheel tightly. Traffic was unusually dense for a weekend and I was almost side-swiped by a vehicle changing lanes. Just out of town and back on the Interstate, I witnessed the tire of a semi truck blow up and shred off its rim right in front of me; a cloud of dust and pieces of rubber flew everywhere. I slammed on the brakes and swerved, narrowly missing a long strip of rubber in the middle of my lane. Having recently just got my car fixed from the vandalism incident, I was starting to feel like I was doomed for another repair.

In order to calm myself and be able to continue on our journey home, I decided to pull off the highway and go hiking. Going into the woods always makes everything better. Plus it was a gorgeous sunny day with crisp temps in the 60's and I wanted to enjoy some fresh air instead of spending all day driving in my car. We headed for a segment of the Ice Age Trail where the treasure hunt for the Our Wisconsin magazine had just ended - John Muir Memorial Park in the Town of Buffalo.

At first glance this park doesn't look like much. There's a tiny picnic shelter, a sign kiosk near the trail head for the IAT segment and pit toilets with no doors on the stalls (seriously, anyone could walk in and see your lady-bits hanging out!). A very nice boat launch is available for non-motorized boats and there's a small baseball field, but otherwise it's pretty simple with very few amenities. However, if you do a little research prior to arriving, you'll find that this is a very special park indeed!

The lake itself is a 30-acre kettle lake, and on this particular day it was vibrant blue, full of sun sparkles and reflecting the colors of the season along its shore. Upon further Google research (later in the day), I found a really nice piece written up by Kara Silva for the Chicago Tribune back in April of this year. She fully researched the historical importance of this area and captured the feeling of hiking the trail in late winter. I highly recommend reading her article, Where 'Green' Began.

The trail begins in a prairie, filled with tall grasses, glowing gold in the late-day light of October. A soft and sandy trail winds its way into oak groves as it follows the curve of the lake. The dwindling canopy reveals intermittent views of the cobalt blue lake and marsh birds flitting about in the reeds. Large oak limbs, like arms, reach out over the trail with branches tapering into fingertips, pointing toward the lake as if beckoning you to enjoy the view.

Learning about the significance that John Muir had in the creation of America's National Parks and his connection with Wisconsin will give you shivers as you explore this park and realize that you are standing on the same earth that this man grew up on. It's quite an experience.

And then there is the car.

This car has been like a pot of gold at the end of the rainbow dangling in front of me for months as I searched parks all across the state for the hidden key. I had a feeling all along that I wouldn't be the one to find the key. Most events in my life are tainted by Murphy's Law; I am not a lucky person. But I offer my congratulations to the winners and hope they enjoy driving their new car; it really is a great vehicle.

TRAIL VIDEO:

IAT: Grandfather Falls, October Edition

Earlier this summer when I met my new Ice-Age-Trail-friend, Rachel, we were talking about our favorite segments and I told her my absolute favorite was Grandfather Falls. She laughed and said that I hadn't hiked enough segments to know which one was my favorite yet. She was right about that! I have so many favorites now that I can't pick just one, but Grandfather Falls was the first segment I ever hiked on the Ice Age Trail and was my inspiration to continue hiking the other segments.

This past Sunday, Charlie and I had the luxury of having this segment all to ourselves and we completely soaked up the beautiful colors and peaceful vibes. I've hiked Grandfather Falls in all seasons now... so here is the fall photo tour of my "inspiration segment." Enjoy!

VIDEOS:

Turtle Rock Revisited

The gray, cloudy morning gave way to sunshine and white fluffy clouds by early afternoon when we arrived at the trail head for Turtle Rock Segment for the second time this year. On this last day of summer, fall colors were beginning to develop along the highway as we traveled north from Wausau on this short road trip. The alternating sensation of cool air from the open sunroof and the warm air from the heat vents was exhilarating and I couldn't wait to have a second chance at hiking this segment!

Earlier this summer, when Charlie and I hiked the entire Turtle Rock segment, the hot, humid weather prevented me from enjoying the last half of the trail because I just wanted to be done hiking! The terrain was difficult both from the rocky landscape and the jungle-sized ferns towering over me, making it impossible to run from the mosquitoes.

I feel lucky to live so close to this segment and have the chance to experience it in different seasons. No trail is ever the same:  light, wildlife and weather make every hike a unique experience. And since the weather has cooled off as the days drift into autumn, bugs are no longer an issue.

Today we started at the trail head on County Hwy E in order to experience what I consider to be the best and most scenic part of this segment along the Wisconsin River ending at Grandfather Falls. At 1:30pm the sun was shining, fluffy white clouds scuttled across the sky and a strong breeze stirred the leaves all around us. The 60-degree temperature was cool and refreshing.

With the sun at a lower angle and the leaves beginning to change color, the forest had a soft yellow glow as the light filtered through the canopy. Beautiful white birch trees formed an ethereal tunnel as we made our way into the woods.

Charlie became distracted when the trail reached the stream that eventually flows into the Wisconsin River. She frequently sniffed the air and paused to listen, as if she sensed wildlife nearby. I made sure to talk loudly and clap my hands to alert any forest-dwellers.

Charlie took a swim break when we arrived at the Wisconsin River above Grandfather Dam where the water was calm, reflecting the electric blue sky above.

After a short break, we continued down toward Grandfather Falls, carefully picking our way through the rocky terrain. I absolutely LOVE this part of the trail because of its obstacle-course qualities. Climbing up and down and all around these rocks makes me feel like a kid again. We found several piles of scat on the trail but were unable to detect what kind of animal left them there. Some were fairly fresh so it's obvious that something had been through here recently, proving Charlie had been correct in her earlier wariness.

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Upon arriving at Grandfather Falls, I took the opportunity to lie on the sun-warmed rock slab while having a snack and let the roaring water clear my mind and relax my spirit. Charlie was content to sit next to me, watching the water flow all around us and have some treats too.

After catching our breath and having a nice break, we continued on a little further to a calm spot in a narrow inlet between the shore and the raging rapids where Charlie could explore the rocky riverbank and play with sticks. I rock-hopped around as well, exploring with her and trying to stay dry! The reflection of the clear blue sky in the water was mesmerizing and we spent more time enjoying the scenery than I had anticipated. It's a lovely luxury to have time to slow down and enjoy the scenery, absorbing the landscape that surrounds you.

As we made our way back, I realized that the shorter days and the lower position of the sun caused the woods to seem almost dark in this late afternoon light. The sun-dappled trail we had enjoyed earlier was now a bit spooky. I was relieved to exit the woods and transition onto the wide, grassy path where the sunshine illuminated flying insects and glowed golden on the late-summer grasses.

Charlie slept peacefully on the way home while I made a quick stop at a roadside stand to purchase some camp wood for our backyard firepit. With the harvest moon waning and crisp, cool evenings looming, I'm looking forward to snuggling up around the campfire with some hot chocolate and enjoy this fleeting season before winter arrives. The fall colors are just starting to arrive here in the Northwoods of Wisconsin, but they'll be in full blaze in just a week or two. It's a great time to plan a fall color road trip and explore this beautiful state!

VIDEO:

Ice Age Trail to Dog Lake

Sunday was an awesome day for a hike! But then again, when isn't it? We headed north on Hwy 17 again this weekend for a solo-hike on the Underdown Segment of the Ice Age Trail where I wanted to go as far as Dog Lake and then backtrack to the car, approximately 6 miles in total.

We started out at 10:30 a.m. at the Copper Lake Ave. entrance and parked on the edge of an ATV trail across the street. The sun was beginning to crest the trees and was slowly drying the dewy grass. It was a cool 62 degrees and I was worried that I hadn't dressed warm enough, although after we got going and worked up a little sweat, I was fine.

Within the first quarter-mile, we came across several piles of what I assume was bear poop that consisted of mostly berries, and it was obvious where they came from - the blackberry bushes were filled with dark, ripe berries that were hanging over the path. Charlie was careful to avoid the thorny branches, but I ended up with a few scratches on my shins and wished I had worn long pants.

The terrain went up and down like a roller coaster giving us a healthy workout. I loved the narrow, rocky trail that wound along the tops of the ridges with sloping views of the valleys and forest below. The slight morning breeze grew stronger causing the branches in the canopy to rub together. I had to pause occasionally to make sure the spooky noises weren't actually wild animals!

We came across sporadic swampy areas containing the peat bogs that were referenced in the IAT Companion Guide. Charlie pulled toward the swampy water but I kept us moving quickly past these areas so she wouldn't be tempted to jump in. Yuck!

At one of the higher points on the trail, there was a momentary view of distant hills and a strong breeze to help cool the sweat on my forehead. I paused to take in the view and catch my breath while Charlie nibbled grass, waiting to continue on.

We came upon a Leopold bench on one of the ridges but weren't ready to take a break. I sometimes wonder at the placement of these benches - often they are never where I wish they'd be.

The delicious wind swirled through the woods causing leaves and pine needles to rain down on us as I smiled wistfully at the changing season. Warmed patches of earth radiated heat as we hiked through open areas, while relief awaited us back in the shade of the woods. The alternating scenery kept us going at a quick pace, anxious to reach our destination where Charlie could go for a swim while I caught up on my trail notes.

We ended up off-trail twice but quickly realized that I hadn't seen a yellow blaze and traced our steps back to the trail. The yellow blazes are strategically placed so you always have a sense of where you are, which is very helpful since my mind drifts and daydreams on this trail so often. Don't second-guess yourself; if you haven't seen a yellow blaze in awhile - go back.

Finally we arrived at Dog Lake and Charlie was elated to be let off leash for a swim and a game of fetch. I sat down on a tree root to write while Charlie played with sticks in the water. I wondered again, why there are never Leopold benches when you need one! This would have been the perfect spot.

Shortly, we had visitors:  an older couple that had arrived at the trail head just after us. We chatted for a moment as Charlie persuaded them to throw her stick and I learned they were also segment-hikers. It's always nice to meet other people who have committed to hiking this treasure of a trail.

A dog swimming in Dog Lake - so perfect!

I'm glad we made it all the way there and even though we were both tired and sore, it was an awesome hike! I even took a break on that Leopold bench during the walk back when I needed to catch my breath. The ascent up the hill had been a long one and I was already tired; turns out that bench wasn't in such a bad spot after all!

I also remembered to watch for the old Homestead Site near Loop Rd. mentioned on the map. When I came across a pile of rocks, at first I thought it was an erratic but upon closer inspection, I saw an old milking pail amidst the stones and weeds. Perhaps these stones were actually part of the foundation? So much history to soak up for the day!

Rusted milking pail?

The old homestead site's foundation?

We had a magical hike along a must-see section of the Ice Age Trail full of challenging but beautiful terrain. The weather was perfect, the mosquitoes were persistent but not horrible and we were able to observe several distinct features of the Ice Age. This was a Sunday afternoon well-spent - observing and appreciating Mother Nature.

IAT: Harrison Hills Segment + Lookout Mountain

Since my trail assistant recently injured her knee and isn't available to help out, Charlie and I are limited to how far we can hike on these segments, needing to leave enough energy to back-track to where we've parked. Typically on longer segments, we'd get dropped off at one end and picked up at the other, allowing us to hike further. With that in mind, I chose to hike a small section of the Harrison Hills Segment from County Hwy B to Lookout Mountain (the Ice Age Trail's highest point), a total of about 3 miles roundtrip.

A boisterous group of hikers began this segment at the same time as Charlie and I did, although we quickly walked ahead of them so Charlie wouldn't be too distracted. I typically prefer solo-hiking and the peace and quiet that comes with that, so we kept a brisk pace to put as much distance between our groups as possible.

The terrain climbed steeply as we ascended to the top of the moraine. I was in too much of a hurry to escape the constant chatter of the other group and had to remind myself to be careful not to trip or twist my ankle on the smattering of rocks covering the trail. While beautiful, they can be dangerous! The signature marks of the Ice Age can be seen easily on this part of the segment as we walked along the ridge on top of the moraine looking down at hills, valleys and rocks scattered across the landscape. A few ATV trails intersect the IAT but the trail markers were easy to follow and we only found one tree with a yellow blaze that was blown down in a recent storm, which we'll report to the local chapter.

We arrived at Lookout Mountain tired and sweaty despite cloudy skies and cool 55 degree temps; climbing up and down the hills and ridges was quite a workout! It was immediately clear to me that Charlie would definitely not be able to climb this tower, as she had recently at Timm's Hill, since the railings were open. The other group caught up to us as we approached the tower and began to climb the stairs so Charlie and I took a break on the ground and played some fetch with a tiny piece of wood. A girl from the group stayed with us to chat and play with Charlie since she was afraid of heights and was kind enough to take a photo of us, although the view from the base of the tower wasn't much to look at.

Charlie was too distracted with her stick to sit still.

The IAT Companion Guide notes that the view from this point is marred by numerous buildings and towers, which is true, but what it doesn't tell you is the amount of noise droning from the buildings' air conditioning units and buzzing from the towers. There was nothing scenic or peaceful about this location. I suppose if I'd climbed the tower, the views of the Antigo Flats and kettle lakes would have been something to see, but I decided to get a head start on returning to the trail so we could put some distance between the other hiking group again since they would be headed back in the same direction as us.

The recent rainfall and week of hot, humid temperatures has brought the flora to life in these woods. Fungi of every type were growing on rotted tree stumps and along the moist debris of the forest floor. Ferns and other foliage were bright green and laced with drops of rain, dripping to the damp earth below. Everything smelled earthy and green.

We were able to enjoy a more leisurely pace on the way back and I took advantage of stopping for pictures more often. Charlie cooperated with these frequent breaks since she was well-exercised by now!

The trail was just as challenging on the way back since the hike to Lookout Mountain isn't a single ascent, but rather a series of ups and downs.

Charlie watching a deer in the valley.

Because it was quiet on the return hike, wildlife was more prevalent. The sound of birds and squirrels chattering and chirping surrounded us and we even saw a deer as it bounded off into a valley, leaping over logs with its white tail waving good-bye.

I would have loved to hike further and check out the beautiful kettle lakes along the trail, reported to contain beavers, but hiking with a dog has its challenges and can be limiting at times. No matter though, I love being out there with her and wouldn't trade it for anything!

We saw some beautiful landscape today and enjoyed a *somewhat* quiet hike in the woods. Charlie met the other group of hikers where we socialized back at the parking lot and played a game of fetch with her tennis ball. Everyone was enamored of her and were in awe of her athleticism. I was outwardly glowing from the exercise but also inwardly glowing with pride for this awesome dog that I'm so lucky to share my life with.